Main classifications of pearls
Hisuper HernándezChecking pearl grading can help you identify pearl value and quality, even if you're not a pearl expert. However, there's no universal grading system. Pearl manufacturers use different grading standards, so you may find various brands such as AAAA+, AAA, AAW1, and so on.
However, there's no need to be confused. In this article, we'll discuss the most common pearl grading systems and how to use them to help you purchase pearls for your jewelry business or personal use.
Main classifications of pearls
Different types of pearls are usually classified according to their respective grading systems. Therefore, before understanding these different systems, it's helpful to understand some types of pearls.
The first classification is natural or cultured pearls. Natural pearls are rare and form spontaneously without human intervention. Cultured pearls, on the other hand, are formed by inducing an irritant in the oyster. Although they are artificially cultivated, their shape cannot be affected by external factors. Generally, most pearls on the market are cultured.
While the second classification is freshwater or saltwater pearls, saltwater pearls grow in pearl oysters that live in seas and oceans. Freshwater pearls grow inside freshwater mussels that live in ponds, lakes, and other freshwater bodies. Almost all freshwater and saltwater pearls are cultured pearls.
Saltwater pearls
Saltwater pearls, which grow inside oysters, come in several types. South Sea pearls, Akoya pearls, and Tahitian pearls are all saltwater pearls. South Sea pearls can be white or gold, and range in size from 9 to 16 mm. They grow in the oceans of the Philippines, Australia, and Indonesia.
Akoya pearls range in size from 3 to 10 mm and originate in Japan. They are sometimes called Japanese Akoya pearls. Tahitian pearls, on the other hand, can range in diameter from 8 to 18 mm and grow in the saltwater oceans of French Polynesia and Panama.
Freshwater pearls
Freshwater pearls typically measure between 5 and 10 mm, but can reach 13 mm. They grow in calm rivers and lakes. Most come from China, and some originate from Lake Biwa, Japan, known as Biwa pearls.
How are pearls classified? (7 factors)
Although there is no universal grading system among pearl manufacturers and suppliers, different types of pearls can be classified based on the following general characteristics. Jewelers and pearl experts use these seven factors to grade and value pearls, including:
Size
Shape
Color
Gloss
Surface quality
Nacre
Pareo
Size
All other factors being equal, the larger the pearl, the higher its value. Regardless of the type, this criterion applies to all pearls. Furthermore, size is determined by the length of time the pearl remains in the oyster.
An average-sized pearl is typically between 8 and 10 mm in diameter. Pearls larger than 10 mm are very valuable, and their price increases exponentially. Large pearls up to 20 mm in diameter can take many years to form and are therefore of high quality.
Shape
Even after cultivation, pearl farmers were unable to modify their shape. Shape is therefore a crucial criterion in determining a pearl's value. Perfectly round shapes are difficult to achieve and their value is considerable. Furthermore, the round shape is easily integrated into any piece of jewelry and is therefore considered supreme.
Jewelers also invest heavily in eye-catching shapes. Because of this, baroque pearls often sell for prices higher than their original price.
Color
Classically white, pearls can be virtually any color. Pearl color has three components. The first is body color. Every pearl has a body color; they can range from white and golden South Sea pearls to dark green Akoya pearls.
Tints are the second component of pearl color. They add subtlety to the color and make the pearl more valuable. The most common tints are pink and silver, while green and salmon are less common.
The third color component is the pearl's hidden luster, which changes with the angle. This type of luster is rare and can make a pearl very valuable. Personal tastes and fashion trends also influence color preferences and ultimately determine their value. Today, dark pearls with subtle hues are considered more valuable.
Gloss
Luster is the first thing you notice about a pearl and, therefore, one of the most important factors when evaluating it. A dense, even layer of nacre produces a uniform reflection of light, giving it luster. Pearls with a lack of luster may contain impurities.
When measuring luster, jewelers look for the degree, sharpness, and symmetry of the reflections, and you can consider this too. A pearl will have great value if it meets these three luster conditions.
Surface quality
The presence of ridges, wrinkles, or scratches can devalue the pearl. These imperfections may be due to irritation inside the oyster or external damage. Particular attention should be paid to the quality of the surface, as this can seriously affect the pearl's durability.
Regardless of the grading system, a high-quality pearl will have a clean surface with over 95% no visible blemishes. You should also consider the surface quality of baroque pearls. Although they are not round or perfect, a valuable baroque pearl has a smooth surface with no abrasions or blemishes.
Nacre
Unlike many other factors, nacre is not visible. However, it can significantly influence a pearl's value, as its thickness and distribution are crucial to its luster.
Irregularities in the nacre can affect the surface quality, forming wrinkles. Furthermore, pearls with thick nacre last a lifetime thanks to their exceptional durability. Saltwater pearls are primarily affected by the quality of the nacre, as most are cultured.
Pareo
Pearl matching takes into account how well pearls combine in jewelry or with other materials such as stainless steel, silver, etc.
Pearls in earrings are usually identical in both size and color. Pearls in necklaces, on the other hand, exhibit gradual size changes, and multiple colors are common.
Four Universal Pearl Classification System
In fact, there is no standard grading system, and each seller grades their pearl differently. It's even possible that one seller's AAA grade could be another's A grade. Some sellers even use the terms AAAA or AAA+ to convince the buyer of the pearl's exceptional quality.
Therefore, as a buyer, you should acquire the necessary knowledge to understand the most commonly used grading systems. Below are four well-known universal pearl grading systems.
GIA classification system
GIA uses the seven value factors mentioned above to grade all pearl types. Pearls under this system are graded as...
Quality A : These pearls may have a weak luster and a discolored appearance. Their shape is not perfectly round, and their surface cleanliness is less than 60%. The nacre is fine, and colored flecks, usually small, may be observed.
AA Quality: Medium-quality pearls that may have a slight luster. Their shape can vary from semicircular to round, but it's not perfect and can have up to 80% clean surface area. The nacre acquires a thick, uniform color.
AAA Quality : These are the highest quality pearls. Pearls of this quality are typically perfectly round, displaying symmetry in their colors and varying shades. Their surface is 95% to 99% clean and possesses exceptional luster. The nacre is evenly distributed and very thick. These are the pearls you'll find in any high-end jewelry store.
Akoya pearl grading system
In the Akoya Pearl Grading System, pearls are graded according to five factors: shape, color, luster, blemishes, and compatibility. It is also called the Japanese grading system due to the Japanese origin of Akoya pearls.
A: Low quality pearls with extremely poor luster.
AA: Luster improves with this grade, but most pearls retain a chalky appearance. The surface may show abrasions and scratches with fine nacre.
AA+: This is the most common quality grade of Akoya pearls. The surface is over 85% clean and the shape is round. Luster is good with symmetrical color distribution. These pearls have no apparent flaws.
AAA: These pearls border on perfection. From their excellent luster to their color nuances, they have it all. The shape is also perfect, with a 98-99% clean surface. The nacre is visibly thick and presents an exceptional combination.
Hanauma: Hanauma is a Japanese flower that represents the top 0.1% of pearls. Each pearl is numbered and comes with a certificate of authenticity from the Pearl Science Laboratory in Tokyo, Japan. They possess all the perfect characteristics expected of a pearl and can last for decades.
Grading system for freshwater and Tahitian pearls
Both grading systems are similar, but their respective pearls are given different names. Unlike other systems, these use the AAA-A and AD scales. Some jewelers also grade South Sea pearls using this system.
Commercial Grade/D Grade : Low quality pearls seen in department stores.
A/C Quantity : 50% blemish-free surface, fine mother-of-pearl, soft luster and almost round shape.
AA/B Quality : 80% blemish-free surface, evenly distributed colors, good gloss, round shape and thick mother-of-pearl.
AAA/A Quality : 95% blemish-free surface, with minor or no abrasions elsewhere. Very thick mother-of-pearl that can present multiple shades. Its luster is impressive, with sharp reflections and excellent blending.
Chinese pearl grading system
In order to reduce the subjectivity of pearl evaluation during trading, many traders in China use the 3A evaluation scheme, that is, according to size, pearls are first divided into three levels: A, B and C, and then according to luster, into three levels: A, B and C.
In short, AAA pearls refer to the highest quality pearls, meaning they have large particles, good shape, and strong luster; CCC pearls are those with small size, poor shape, and soft luster.
However, this system is intuitive and simple, but it is too crude to offer specific guidance for quoting based on the classification standard.
Conclusion
Understanding these different pearl grading systems will help you identify their value and quality. If you have any questions, please leave a comment below. If you find the information I provide useful, please share this article with your friends or on Twitter, Facebook, Quora, Reddit, etc.
